Entry: $600 per car, $150 per driver, $75 for non-driving crew members. (Each team must have 4-6 drivers.) This fee covers registration, track time, paddock pass, track insurance, on-site ambulance crew, commemorative crap, and anything else we come up with by then. Non-driving crew members get all the same bennies except track time.
Not driving or wrenching for a team? General-access paddock passes are always available at the gate--they're $30 and good all weekend. Kids under 16 are free.
3.A TECH INSPECTION RULES
3.A.1 General Tech Inspection. Vehicles must meet all safety standards laid out in this section and must pass tech inspection prior to each race. Tech inspection (also called “Lemons Safety Inspection”) is in no way a certification, representation, or guarantee that your crappy old vehicle is fit or safe to drive. Each team is solely responsible for determining its vehicle's safety, fitness to race, and compliance with LeMons' rules.
3.A.2 Floor Jack and Jackstands at Tech. Each team must bring at least one sturdy floor jack, and at least two sturdy jackstands, to tech inspection. Each team is responsible for safely raising its car off the ground during tech.
3.B MANDATORY SAFETY WEAR & NECK PROTECTION
3.B.1 Driver's Helmet. Undamaged, full-face Type SA helmet, Snell SA2005 or better, mandatory. FIA 8860-2000 certification is also acceptable. No open-face or hybrid helmets allowed. Complete, closable, working visors must be intact and in place. Type M (in other words, any motorcycle helmets) and other non-SA helmets not allowed. Don't know if your helmet qualifies? Gently peel back the inner padding to find the Type stamp; if it doesn't have an original, orange-letter, hologram-backed "SA" sticker, you're boned.
3.B.2 Neck Brace/Helmet Support. Racing-type neck protection (see examples here ) is mandatory. SFI-certified foam roll-type neck braces are the cheapest (but, naturally, also the least protective) acceptable option. However, it is very highly recommended that you step up to a better, costlier system such as Hutchens, Isaac, NecksGen, D-Cel, HANS, Simpson Rage, or another well tested, independently certified support device. These devices should be SFI or FIA certified to maximize their likelihood of acceptance; all belts, mountings, and other items that work with the device must be correct and appropriate to the device type.
3.B.3 Fire-Retardant Clothing. Full SFI 3.2/A- or FIA 8856-2000-certified fire-retardant driving suits must be worn by all drivers at all times while inside the car. If using a single-layer SFI 3.2/A1 or 3.2/A3 suit, driver must also wear fire-retardant SFI- or FIA-certified long underwear. Multilayer suits rated SFI 3.2/A5 or higher are highly recommended and may be worn without long underwear. Fire-retardant FIA- or SFI-rated racing gloves and shoes are required. And yeah, while they may very well be superior, military-spec or firefighter suits are not FIA- or SFI-rated, so we can't accept them.
3.B.4 Socks and Other Undergarments. Socks, shirts, and other undergarments made of synthetic material (including nylon, orlon, Spandex, etc.) will melt to the skin in a fire and are strictly forbidden. Fire-retardant (Nomex, Carbon-X, or equivalent) racing socks are mandatory.
3.B.5 Arm Restraints. Arm restraints are required when driving an open T-Top or convertible.
3.C FUELING RULES
3.C.1 Fueling. All fueling must be done from handheld DOT-, SCCA-, or FIA-approved 5-gallon or smaller jugs or from the track's permanent pumps. During fueling, the kill switch must be off; no one can be in the car; and NO other work may be done (no fluid or tire checks, no screwing with the camera, etc.). At least two crew members must participate in fueling, all wearing the same safety gear as a driver. Visors must be down. At least one team member must have a fire extinguisher in hand, ready to shoot, aimed at the fueler or fuelers. Fueling locations vary by track and are covered at the Drivers Meetings. Participants are responsible for knowing all fueling rules and accepted locations.
3.C.2 Drip Pans. All fueling must be done over a sturdy, fuel-compatible drip pan provided by the team.
3.C.3 Fuel Spills. Fuel spills should be quickly diluted with water or Cold Fire. Gasoline eats asphalt, so don't let it sit! Officials are happy to give you free cleanup supplies—come find one ASAP.
3.C.4 Fluid Spills and Disposal. Please prevent and contain fluid spills. If you do spill, come to LeMons HQ or alert any track official ASAP--we'll help you get it cleaned up. Most tracks have environmentally safe disposal stations onsite--ask LeMons HQ or any track official for locations.
3.C.5 No Fuel in Garages. Fuel storage and fueling aren't allowed in covered buildings. Keep your fuel in a secure, shady place outside the garage, and always refuel your hooptie in the open air.
3.D GENERAL VEHICLE REGULATIONS
3.D.1 Minimum Wheelbase. The minimum acceptable wheelbase is 82 inches (as delivered by the factory). Cars with smaller wheelbases may be granted a waiver by LeMons after extensive review of the team's construction and safety plans. (These plans inevitably require extensive, high-quality engineering; lots of new material; and huge amounts of high-quality fabrication. If you're the least bit shy on talent, dedication, or budget, it’s better to pick something else.)
3.D.2 OE Crush Structures. Modifications that reduce the size and/or effectiveness of OE crush structures -- including but not limited to shortening or removing frame rails or unibody structures outside the wheelbase -- are discouraged in the strongest possible terms. Cars with compromised OE crush structures are exceedingly likely to fail tech. Non-OE replacement crush structures are not an acceptable substitute; you and your stick welder ain't NHTSA.
3.D.3 No Gullwings. Or Lambo doors, or anything else that will trap you inside when you roll.
3.E ROLLCAGE REGULATIONS
3.E.1 General Rollbar and Structure. Professionally-made full rollcage required. A poorly built, improperly mounted, or badly engineered rollcage will keep you from racing: Don't show up with crap! Cages originally created as bolt-ins will not pass without extensive modifications; these mods usually cost more time and money than just starting with the right weld-in cage. At minimum, cage must include: Full front and rear hoop, appropriately braced to each other along the roofline (halo type and side/downbar type are also acceptable); two driver-side door bars (X-design is acceptable); appropriate main-hoop backstays with no bends, located as close to 45 degrees from horizontal as practical; one main-hoop diagonal; appropriate spreader plates and gussets; complete 360-degree welds at all joints, including all car-to-cage joints. Each major loadbearing member must be formed from a single, continuous tube. Shoulder-harness bars are necessary for proper shoulder-harness mounting in nearly all applications (the harness-to-bar attachment point must be between zero and 15 degrees lower than the harness's seat-entry point). Dash bars are very strongly encouraged. On all sides, all drivers' helmeted heads must be at least two inches inside the area enclosed by the cage. For simple illustrations, check out LeMons’ “How Not to Fail Safety Inspection” PDF.
3.E.1.a Rollbar Tubing and Spreader-Plate Specs. Minimum tubing size for cars weighing under 3000 pounds as raced is 1.50" x .120" or 1.75" x .095". Cars weighing over 3000 pounds as raced must use a minimum tubing size of 1.75" x.120". Properly bent, racecar-grade and -quality tubing is mandatory: no stretched or crushed bends allowed. DOM mild steel is very strongly recommended over ERW (seamed) tubing. All spreader plates must be mild steel, at least 24 square inches, and at least .125” thick.
3.E.1.b What Do You Mean By All That Mumbo-Jumbo? Don't understand any of the above? See where it states “professionally made”? You shouldn't be doing this yourself.
3.E.1.c Rollbar Padding. All roll cage tubing must be padded with high-density rollbar padding wherever a driver may contact the tube--head, knees, elbows, etc.
3.E.1.d Rollcage Attachment to Vehicle. All attachment points on the vehicle must be selected and reinforced as necessary so that, in an accident, the cage will not punch through, tear, or grossly distort the attachment point. Contour-following spreader plates; backing panels; gussets; and/or other reinforcing elements are generally required to meet this goal. Cages mounted to rusty, thin, under-supported, or otherwise stupid attachment points will flunk tech immediately.
3.E.1.e Rear Limit of Rollcage. No backstay, spreader plate, or other rollcage element can extend past the rear edge of the back tire. (In exceptionally rare cases, very tiny cars may require a different solution--contact LeMons HQ well in advance.) Separate structures to protect fuel tanks, etc., are allowed behind the rear tires, but they can’t be attached to the rollcage and can’t allow rear-impact loads to be transferred to the rollcage.
3.E.1.f Main-Hoop to Backstay Intersection Location. Main backstays must attach no more than six inches (measured from the top of the stay) below the main hoop's highest point.
3.E.1.g Minimum Door Bar Separation. Whether the door bars are parallel or X-shaped, the top edge of the highest bar and bottom edge of the lowest bar must be at least 7.5 vertical inches apart at both ends.
3.E.1.h Passenger-Side Door Bars Required. All cars must have passenger-side door bars meeting the same rules (though not necessarily using the same design) as drivers-side door bars.
3.F VEHICLE INTERIOR REGULATIONS
3.F.1 Driver’s Seat
3.F.1.a General Driver's Seat Regs. Driver's seatback must reach above middle of helmet or higher. One-piece, purpose-built racing seats with properly located, factory-provided shoulder-harness holes are mandatory. Molded plastic seats of ABS or similar material are not allowed. All seats must be very securely mounted to the floor or cage to avoid separation during a crash. All seatbacks must be restrained against rearward failure.
3.F.1.b Seats With Seatback Braces. Permanently attached seatback braces are very strongly recommended, but must always be appropriate to the seat type. A mismatched seat/seatback-brace combination can damage the seat or seriously injure the driver -- confer with the seat's manufacturer to choose the correct brace. The plate where the seatback brace meets the seatback must be properly located to encompass the seat's main structural elements, and large enough not to push through the seat in a crash or otherwise concentrate loads on the driver. (The plates sold with many commercial braces are too small to meet this requirement--often, you'll need to add your own, larger, custom-shaped plate.)
3.F.1.c Seats Without Seatback Braces. If a seatback brace is not used, a strong, seat-width element such as a shoulder-harness bar must be located within six inches of the seatback to prevent the seat from failing rearward.
3.F.1.d Solid Mounting. All seats, including seats on adjustable tracks, must show minimal looseness and no back-and-forth freeplay.
3.F.1.e Seat and Headrest Strength. All seats must be strong enough to withstand major impacts from any angle. The headrest area must be strong enough not to bend in a heavy rear impact.
3.F.2 Driver’s Harness
3.F.2.a Five- or Six-Point Harnesses Mandatory. Five- or six-point harnesses mandatory, including fifth or fifth/sixth "anti-submarine" belt. All harnesses must be SFI or FIA approved; dated within five years of the race; and properly mounted. Shoulder harnesses must be two totally separate belts with separate mounting points (ie, single-point Y-belts are not allowed). When viewed from above, shoulder harnesses should be closer at their mounting points than at their seat-entry points. All lap belts must be standard 2-inch or 3-inch width; 2-inch HANS-type shoulder belts are allowed only if ALL drivers are using a HANS-type device at all times.
3.F.2.b Harness Mounting Hardware. Grade 8 or better hardware and 2.5-inch or larger load washers are required when mounting to sheet metal.
3.F.2.c Anti-Submarine Belt Mounting. Anti-submarine belt(s) should be mounted vertically. If this requires cutting a hole in the seat squab, don't route the belt(s) in a way that allows them to fray on a seat spring. If vertical mounting is impractical, the mounting point should be located behind, not ahead of, the belt buckle.
3.F.2.d Harness Routing. Belts should be routed and threaded as shown in LeMons’ “How Not to Fail Safety Inspection” PDF , with at least a 4-inch tail. All sliders should be snugged up to their mounting plates or harness bars as much as possible. Belts should be neatly and evenly folded when passing through narrower hardware, such as 3-inch belts passing through 2-inch mounting plates.
3.F.2.e Snap-Type Harness Ends. On snap-end-type belt mounts, restrain the snap arm with a cotter pin or safety wire through the hole in the arm.
3.F.3 Onboard Fire Extinguisher. Fully charged Purple K, Type 10B:C, or Type A:B:C extinguisher, 2.5 lbs or larger, must be located in easy reach of driver and secured via a proper, purpose-made, all-metal quick-release bracket. (In other words, just go to the damn hardware store and buy a good mount; don't use the cheap plastic thingy that came with the bottle.) No sheetmetal screws or self-tapping screws allowed in mounting.
3.F.4 Window Nets and Driver Egress. Window nets are not mandatory. While a window net can provide hand and arm protection in a rollover, it can also contribute to injury or death in a fire. If you decide to use one, it is critical that all of your drivers are well practiced at removing the net. It is also critical that they are well practiced at releasing belts, cooling tubes, radio wires, and any other attachments quickly. All drivers must be able to exit the car rapidly under potentially life-threatening conditions. IT IS EXTREMELY IMPORTANT THAT EVERY TEAM MEMBER PRACTICE EMERGENCY CAR ESCAPES BEFORE RACING!
3.F.5 Fix Sharp Edges. Sharp edges in any location--but especially in and around the cockpit--must be rolled, removed, or securely covered.
3.F.6 Fuel, Oil, and Coolant Lines in the Cockpit. Any fuel, oil, or coolant lines that pass through the driving compartment must be encased by heavy-duty conduit, durable steel or aluminum pipe, or strong metal plate. OE metal lines in good condition in their original location are exempt from this rule, but encasement is still recommended.
3.F.7 No Airbags. All airbags must be disarmed and removed, and all airbag housings must be open for inspection at tech. (Remember, airbag removal can be really dangerous--please try not to blow your damn fool head off. If you don't know what you're doing, call in an expert. Let him blow HIS damn fool head off.)
3.F.8 Cockpit De-Scuzzification. Anything loose in the cockpit can be a deadly missile in a crash; remove or secure any loose items. Loose wiring can cause fires and interfere with the driver; remove or secure all wiring, hoses, and cables. Carpets, insulation, and plastics will burn quickly and release poisonous fumes; strip as much of these out of the cockpit as practical. Large items like cool-suit chests must be extremely well secured by purpose-built metal retainers or at least two very well secured, heavy-duty, fully ratcheting tie-down straps.
3.G ELECTRICAL & MECHANICAL REGULATIONS
3.G.1 Master Electrical Kill Switch. All cars must have a racing-type master electrical kill switch easily turned both off and on by the belted-in driver. The control for this switch should be red; the OFF position should be clearly indicated; the switch should be easily accessible from outside the car; and the switch should be clearly marked by a three-inch or larger lightning-bolt symbol. All electricity must be interrupted by the kill switch (if you don't do that, the engine may still run off the alternator even after the battery circuit is disconnected). Don't put the switch where it's likely to be hit by another car in traffic or crushed in an accident.
3.G.2 General Battery. All batteries must be fully secured via proper, purpose-built battery brackets, battery frames, or factory body mounts. Zip ties, bungee cords, duct tape, macrame plant holders, and other lame workarounds won't cut it. Batteries located in, or visible from, the passenger compartment must be sealed-type or contained in a sealed battery box. Whether enclosed in a box or not, batteries must not rock, shift, or feel loose -- they should feel like a solid part of the car.
3.G.2.a Battery and Other Electrical Terminals. All "hot" terminals on batteries, kill switches, and at other exposed points must be covered with insulating material. Rubber terminal covers and/or well wrapped electrical tape are acceptable. Silver duct tape is NOT acceptable.
3.H FUEL SYSTEM REGULATIONS
3.H.1 General Fuel System Regs. All fuel systems, including OE fuel tanks and aftermarket fuel cells, must be sound and in good working order. Maximum allowed capacity is 24 gallons or less. Fuel tanks or cells must be completely behind, or completely in front of, the driver (unless OE parts in their OE locations). No second fuel tanks allowed (unless OE parts in their OE locations).
3.H.2 Definition of “Fuel Cell”. For LeMons, a fuel cell has all of the following: a) a purpose-built metal container; b) deformable, puncture-resistant inner vessel and/or bladder; and c) fuel-resistant anti-splash foam. Anything else is just a big bucket 'o' gas, despite what it's El Cheapo maker may call it--these units are EXTREMELY unlikely to pass tech.
3.H.3 Aftermarket Fuel Cells Versus OE Fuel Tanks. Fuel cells are allowed, but they are NOT mandatory. Don't make the rookie mistake of assuming that anything billed as a "fuel cell" is safer than a sound OE fuel tank. High-quality, professionally constructed, correctly installed real fuel cells tend to be safer than OE tanks; cheap and/or poorly installed fuel cells tend to be less safe than OE tanks.
3.H.4 Fuel Cell Installation. If you decide to install a fuel cell, it must be securely mounted in a professional manner and must be installed in a safe location where it won't be damaged in an impact or drag on the ground if the car leaves the track – in other words, not too far back, and not too low down. All aftermarket fuel components must use threaded fittings and appropriate hose types, and must include all appropriate racecar-quality vents, valves, and other safety features. Fuel-cell installations will be judged on their overall execution and apparent safety.
3.H.4.a Fuel Cell Safety Structure. Fuel tanks/cells must not be unduly exposed to impacts. Tanks/cells that are very close to the edge of the car; and/or poorly protected by the OE structure; and/or very close to the ground; and/or otherwise highly exposed are extremely likely to fail tech. One or more of the following may improve safety and greatly increase your chances of passing: 1) sturdy OE bumpers; 2) a strong, well mounted, tank/cell-protecting cage that is totally separate from the main rollcage; 3) in non-OE systems, moving the cell someplace safer.
3.H.4.b Fuel Cell Vent Lines. All non-OE fuel vent line(s) must end in a safe location that is lower than the bottom of the fuel cell. (This helps prevent siphoning when you go upside-down and your cell's crappy check valve fails).
3.H.4.c Filler Hoses and Attachments. All non-OE filler systems must be constructed of real, professionally made, purpose-built wire- or nylon-reinforced fuel-filler tubing and real, professionally made, purpose-built fasteners and attachments.
3.H.5 OE Tank Removal. If you fit a fuel cell, the OE fuel tank(s) must be removed from the car.
3.H.6 Fuel Bulkhead. The fuel-tank area must be totally separated from the driving compartment. For example, if the fuel tank is in the trunk area, any openings between the trunk and the cockpit must be permanently sealed with bolted, riveted, or welded metal panels. OE fuel tanks that are separate from, and located completely below, the trunk floor or rear cabin floor are acceptable. If the fuel tank can't be completely separated from the cockpit by metal panels, a metal-encased, FIA-certified fuel cell with all related compliant fittings must be used.
3.H.7 Zero Tolerance for Fuel Leaks. Get your fuel system in good working order! If any staff member sees a suspect leak you will be immediately black-flagged and sent to the tech shed. You will have ONLY ONE CHANCE to completely repair any fuel leak. If the staff member detects a second instance of leakage, regardless of cause, your car must be permanently removed from the race. No exceptions.
3.H.8 No Goofy Fuels. No methanol. No propane or other compressed fuels. Gasoline, mass-market gasoline blends, diesel, and vegetable oil are fine. Hybrids and full electrics may be accepted, but contact us first before building.
3.I EXHAUST SYSTEM REGULATIONS
3.I.1 General Exhaust System Regs. A professional-quality exhaust system is required. Exhaust outlets and tubing must be designed, routed, and maintained to avoid heating the fuel tank(s) and/or fuel system components. FUEL HEATING IS EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND MUST BE AVOIDED AT ALL TIMES!
3.I.2 Exhaust System Construction. Exhaust system must include at least two professional-quality flexible exhaust hangers (i.e., not baling wire or plumber's tape) aft of the collector. All exhaust joints must be properly slip-jointed, properly bolted or welded, and must not leak.
3.I.3 Tailpipe Location. Exhaust system may not dump ahead of the driver, and must not allow undue levels of exhaust to reach the driver's compartment. Exhaust pipes may not end more than six inches inside the edge of the body (i.e., sidepipes and tailpipes are fine--a pipe that dumps under the middle of the car isn't).
3.I.4 Maintain in Due Order. All teams must maintain their exhaust in good condition, without leaks, throughout the event.
3.I.5 Noise Limit. Our noise limit is 92dB @50 feet @ W.O.T. What that boils down to is no straight pipes allowed; please use at least one muffler or resonator. With these heaps, a single Cherry Bomb or Supertrapp is usually plenty.
3.J REGULATIONS REGARDING THE EXTERIOR OF YOUR CLAPTRAP
3.J.1 Windshields. A sturdy, driver-protecting windshield is required; we strongly recommend OE-type. Real polycarbonate or strong, securely mounted steel mesh is also acceptable. Acrylic and all other non-polycarbonate plastics are not allowed. All non-OE windshields must be thick enough and suitably braced to resist a heavy object striking the windshield at speed.
3.J.1.a Bad-Weather Visibility. It's your job to figure out which bad-weather visibility aids will be most useful for your car. Wipers, Rain-X, tearoffs, small squeegee-wielding children tied to the hood, etc. are all acceptable. If your visibility appears compromised during the race for any reason, you may be black-flagged until conditions improve.
3.J.2 Fenders, Doors, and Hoods Required. All cars must have fenders at all wheels; all doors in place; and OE hoods. Hoods must be securely mounted by OE hardware and/or strong fasteners at all corners.
3.J.3 Car Numbers. Numbers must be shown on both sides, and also the hood or roof. Car numbers must be at least 12 inches tall and clearly readable. Numbers must be white on black background--if you choose another format, you're just increasing your chances of failing tech. Cars that show up with incorrect, improperly formatted, or otherwise hard-to-read numbers will fail tech instantly.
3.J.4 Tow-Strap Locations. Please identify (or add) good, strong, clearly marked tow-strap locations to your car front and rear. The faster we can get you hooked up, the faster you can get back on the track. (The word "TOW" with an arrow is acceptable marking.)
3.J.5 Nerf Bars Not Allowed. Added structural elements that extend past the original bodywork line are not allowed. In other words, no nerf bars, wheel-protection cages, or crash bars. (Worried about your car being damaged? Here's an idea--don't hit anyone.)
3.J.6 No Open Sunroofs. All sunroof openings must be covered by either the original sunroof panel; a new panel securely fixed into place; or securely fixed mesh with openings no larger than 1/2-inch each.
3.J.7 Open T-Tops and Convertibles. Arm restraints are required when driving an open T-Top or convertible.
3.J.8 Mirrors. All cars must have at least one interior mirror. Cars with OE-type interior mirrors must also have a driver's-side exterior mirror. Passenger's-side exterior mirrors are optional. Cars with panoramic or "Wink"-type interior mirrors don't need exterior mirrors, but can use them if they like.
3.J.9 Glass, Headlights, and Taillights. Driver's- and passenger's-side front windows must be open. Headlights, taillights, and sidemarker lights must be removed or taped over.
3.J.9.a Brake Lights. At all times, each car must have at least one working brake light that is easily seen from the rear. The light should be located where a mild rear-end impact won't break or obscure it. Good spots include inside the rear windshield area; on top of the parcel shelf; and on the deck at the base of the rear-windshield area. Stock brake lights protected by clear tape are fine.
3.J.9.b Headlights for Night Racing. In the rare case of a night race, headlights may be required. See the Event Page of the race that you've entered for details.
3.J.10 No Flashing Lights or Sirens. No working sirens, flashing lights, or similar emergency vehicle stuff allowed. Anything that could make your car be confused for an actual emergency vehicle will get you black-flagged.
3.K SAFETY REGS UNDER THE HOOD
3.K.1 Engine Firewall. Gaps or holes in the engine firewall must be sealed up with metal plate or OE-type grommets. If you can see through it, we want it closed up. In addition to the required unbroken firewall between engine and cockpit, rear- and mid-engined cars must have a sturdy rear window or other complete upper barrier for driver protection against fire, hot oil, angry villagers, etc. Metal, heavy polycarbonate (1/4-inch or thicker), and OE glass are all acceptable.
3.K.2 Coolant. Coolant must be water only--no antifreeze, antiboil, water-wetter, or other additives allowed. (That stuff is slippery--when your car pukes its guts all over the track, we don't want to be sliding around in it.) A functional catch tank is mandatory.
4: VEHICLE PRICE
6: DRIVING AND PENALTIES